Cattleya


Culture for the beginner
When people thing of orchids, they most often think of Cattleyas. Not only are Cattleyas the single most popular orchid genus today, they form the idealized ‘orchid’ in the public minds eye’. While once considered a rich man’s hobby, orchid growing is now within the reach of just about everyone. Cattleyas are often the first orchid attempted and among the very easiest to grow, especially if a few basic guidelines are followed. Indeed, so many Cattleyas are grown around the world that their basic cultural requirements are given as instruction for the growing of other types of orchids – ‘Grow it like a Cattleya’.

Today, Cattleya hybrids come in all colors – not just the ‘traditional’ white, purple, and white with colored lip – but reds, greens, yellows, oranges, even blue. Cattleyas are also available year around. Yes, a very satisfactory collection could be built with only Cattleyas.

Except in more tropical areas such as Hawaii and Florida, Cattleyas really do best in a greenhouse. They can, however, be grown with moderate success in the home if adequate light and humidity can be maintained. Plants can be grown in a sunny window – lightly shaded south or east or west, never north – and summered out-of-doors for best results. There is also a group of Cattleya hybrids stemming from the cold-tolerant Mexican laelias, notably L. anceps, that can be grown out-of-doors year around where frost does not threaten.

Light – Most Cattleyas and their relatives are among the easiest orchids to grow and can easily adapt to home growing by following a simple rules. They require a good amount of light to grow and flower well, so place in a bright window, but protect leaves from a leaf – scorching hot sun behind sheer panel curtains. Light need varies according to the time of day. Early morning sun accompanied by high humidity and low – moderate temperature is excellent. Protective shade should be heaviest at noon to afternoon with the least after 3 p.m. They thrive in maximum sunlight without excessive leave burning temperature. A good guide to whether or not a plant is getting proper light is the color of the foliage. It should be light olive green rather than a dark lush green. The bulbs should develop straight and upright without the need for staking. If the plant produces weak growths with no sheath, it is a sign of insufficient light.

Temperature – Basically, Cattleyas enjoy the same temperature as you: nights of 60 ° - 65 ° F, with days of 70 ° - 85 °F, however plants will stand down into the fifties and up into the nineties with little or no damage. If humidity and watering are in line. A good rule of thumb is to raise humidity with temperature and lower with lower temperatures.

Fertilizer – Cattleyas should be fed every two weeks with Dyna-Gro, 7-9-5 at the dilution of 1tsp. per gallon of water. Every fourth feeding use Dyna-Bloom, 3-12-6 at the same dilution. If you prefer to fertilize on a weekly schedule you may do so using half strength dilution. Remember to rinse the potting media to wash away any accumulated residues once a month (at least).

Humidity – In nature, plants enjoy 50 – 60% humidity. This is just about what people enjoy. If the area feels good, it probably is. Humidity can be raised by damping down the area under your beaches or by spraying overhead in extreme conditions. There is no need to purchase expensive or elaborate equipment for housing your plants. Select a shallow dish or tray large enough to hold your plants, fill tray with gravel, shells, or colored aquarium stones. Fill tray approximately one half full of water. The humidity caused by the water evaporating off the rocks provides needed moisture surrounding your plants. Place tray near bright window and arrange your plants on top of stones. Never allow pots to sit in water. They should always be above the water level in trays. (Capillary action will absorb water into the pot, and keep plants soggy and sour, and rot the roots off, if allowed to sit in water.)

Watering – Understand when to water is possibly the most difficult part of growing Cattleyas for the beginner. Cattleyas have to evolve water storage organs to withstand periodic drying in their native habitats. For this reason, it is recommended that plants in cultivation be allowed to go nearly dry between waterings. They like to be alternately well watered and dried out. Many factors affect when to water . . . weather conditions, size of pot, size of plant, potting medium, etc. In short, Cattleyas should be watered when the potting medium becomes dry. The pot will feel quite light when picked up. To determine moisture content of potting mix, push the freshly sharpened end of a wooden pencil approximately 3” onto the bark near the center of the pot. Leave it for a few seconds, twist it several times, remove it and look at the freshly sharpened wood. If it indicates the presence of moisture, don’t water. If the wood surface is dry, water the plant thoroughly. Some plants will require water more frequently because they will “use” more. Generally speaking, 6” to 8: pots require a thorough watering every 5 – 7 days in hot weather and every 10 – 14 days in cool weather. During prolonged cool or cloudy periods, once or twice a month may suffice. When watering take your pots to the sink and either immerse pots for 15 minutes or run water thorough the potting medium to thoroughly soak the bark through out. Do not use artificially home- softened water because of its salt content. You should consider the needs of each plant by itself.

Potting Media – Fir bark is the most commonly used potting media for Cattleyas in most of the United States. We use a 3/8” – 5/8” grind on mature plants (4” pot size and up) and 1/8” – 1/4” on seedlings and smaller growing plants. We mix approximately 1 part horticulture charcoal and 1 part fir bark to aid in water retention and maintain a more balanced ph. The mix should be moistened before use.

Repotting and Dividing – Cattleyas should be repotted, on average, every two years. Careful observation of your plants will enable you to know when the plants are actively rooting. This is the optimum time for repotting – when the plant is just beginning to root. Unless the plant has outgrown a sizeable pot (8” or more), it is best to shift the plant on and not divide as this will allow the plant to give its flowering. When dividing, always leave 3-5 green bulbs per division as this will usually allow the plant to flower the same year it is potted. The oldest bulb should be against the edge of the pot and the newest toward the center, with sufficient space for two year’s growth. The mix should be firmly tamped down and a water basin of approx. 1” left below the rim of the pot. Newly potted plants will appreciate being kept slightly shaded in humid atmosphere and dry at the roots (if possible).

Division Rules – Minimum of 3 – 5 bulbs with leaves per division.

Choosing Pot Size – Leave room for two new growths to develop.

Pests – The most common pests associated with Cattleyas are the sucking insects, such as scale, mealy bug, and aphids. These pests are most effectively controlled by the use of 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol, in a misting bottle. To apply: mist the entire plant, including the top-side and under-side of the leaf.